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My Onboard Air System

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Continued...

When I last stopped working on this project, the compressor was mounted and the airbox moved.  Those were nearly completed projects, themselves.

There is still more I want to do to the airbox, but it can wait for a while.  I have completed the compressor install and just need to do the wiring of the on/off switch.   I have all the parts I need to complete this project, but, due to time constraints, it has to be done in stages.  Below you can see some of the final steps that have been completed.

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The compressor is fully mounted and wired.  All it needs is a 40 amp fuse installed in the ABS slot of the underhood fuse box and it is ready to run.

After looking over the other connections I saw that I needed to wire the relay in by connecting female connectors onto the wires and forcing them in place  from the bottom side of the fuse box.  The connectors sit almost flush with the top side of the fuse box display area.

Once the wires are in place the relay is installed by simply pushing it into place, just like factory.  It takes a fair amount of force to install, so don't be timid about pushing it in.

In the picture to the left you can see the air hose and some of the wires.   The pinkish color is the air hose and the red and black wires near the end of the compressor are the power leads.  You can also see the red power lead near the mounting bracket in the fuse box photo as well.

This air hose comes from the bottom of the tank (pictured below) to the front of the Jeep routed next to the frame and held in place with zip ties.

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The 40 amp fuse is in the fuse space in the bottom left portion of the fusebox displayed.  Just to the left of where the letters "Insert IOD Fuse" are written on the black plastic.  These fuses have two slots in their base and the fuse is pushed down on top of the spade connectors coming up from the bottom of the fuse box.

The fusebox assembly is rather easy to take apart.  First remove the hot lead from the battery terminal.  Next undo the two nuts at the far left of the fuse box that supply power from the battery to the fuses.

Using a small, flat blade screwdriver, pry back the catch on the four large metal tabs that hold the box in place.  Once the box is removed, there are five smaller tabs that allow you to separate the top from the bottom, that allow you access into the actual wires.  Now you can see where to route the wires for your next project.

The picture above was taken from the drivers side of the Jeep, looking just under the frame.  The large metal pan to the left is the skid plate below the T-case.

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The picture above, was taken from under the Jeep and from the passenger side.   Here you can see the heart of the system.  The black box is the pressure cut-out switch.  The upper air hose is the outlet line that runs to the back bumper and the lower line is the supply line from the compressor.

The brass fitting at the black box is the safety relief valve.  It hangs straight down and sits slightly above the height of the skid plate.  I plan on adding a skid plate to this whole affair and attaching it to the two threaded holes you see above the lower air line.  The large brass fitting is the check valve and in the bottom, center of the tank is to manually open and allow moisture out of the system.

 

The 40 amp relay I installed for my compressor is the large black one, with the white sticker on it (space 31 on the diagram).  I purchased it from a local auto parts supply and it is a Borg Warner relay, part number R3020.  This relay is a single pole/single throw, four prong relay.  It cost me just over $20.

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The picture above is the quick connect external connection on the drivers side, rear bumper.  My air hose will plug in here, allowing me access to all four Jeep tires, as well as the trailer tires.  I welded up a "T" bracket to hold the hose onto, and drilled the base of it and used the bumper mounting bolts to hold it in place.

Now all I need, is to wire the switch and run the compressor to break it in, and I am ready to roll!

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